Established in 2013 by visionary designer Lu Ying, PRIVAGUET Jewelry is renowned for its artistic creations that boast a fusion of mechanical aesthetics, sculptural design, and vivacity. These creations draw upon the heritage of ancient French jewellery craftsmanship and find inspiration in the beauty of nature, resulting in innovative art jewellery pieces that encapsulate fleeting vitality. These exquisite pieces have earned the admiration of collectors worldwide.
Conversing with the designer unveils the mysteries behind her bespoke creations, her sources of inspiration, and the best techniques to amplify the luminosity of her jewellery. Engaging in conversation with the designer also reveals the treasure behind the jewellery – the designer herself.
In 2023, Forbes China awarded PRIVAGUET with “China’s emerging jewellery brand” and lauded the brand as one of the representatives of contemporary Art Nouveau style creations. Lu Ying, the brand’s founder and chief designer, masterfully blends the grandeur and elegance of French classics with the nuanced charm of oriental aesthetics, crafting unique high-end jewellery pieces for discerning customers.
Lu Ying embraces a forward-thinking philosophy, evident in her concept of “designing for the future”. Her jewellery pieces are transcending transcend time and space to immortalize life’s most beautiful moments. While jewellery may hold different meanings for different people, for PRIVAGUET, it represents a continuity of life, forever captured in stunning creations.
Driven by a desire to make her creations accessible to all, Lu Ying offers high-quality jewellery at affordable prices without compromising the craftsmanship associated with luxury brands. The brand’s flagship store, situated on the Bund, an area fondly referred to as the “Jewellery Box of the Magical City”, invites everyone to step inside without the need for an appointment. It’s an open door to a world of exquisite beauty, symbolizing Lu Ying’s commitment to sharing her work with the world.
Imbued with the spirit of Art Nouveau, Lu Ying’s jewellery pieces encapsulate an aesthetic that reveres nature, exudes sensuality and teems with vivaciousness and depth. These traits manifest themselves beautifully in the design elements of her creations. The “Nature Vive” Collection, in particular, mirrors the quintessential themes of contemporary Art Nouveau style, serving as a testament to Lu Ying’s ability to translate artistic movements into tangible, wearable art.
Engaging in conversation with the designer unveils the intricate secrets behind her custom-crafted jewellery, the fount of her inspiration, and the optimal methods to accentuate the jewellery’s radiance. Discussing her design inspirations, Lu Ying reveals that her designs for the “Privaguet Halo” are a triumvirate of elements: Chinese knots, resplendent fireworks, and the Great Wall. “My primary aim,” she elucidates, “was to blend the grandeur of the most monumental architectural feat in human history, elements steeped in regional traditions, and the radiant beauty of Chinese wisdom into this piece, culminating in an artwork of complex and exquisite beauty.”
In the realm of production techniques, the ingenious ‘blade’ setting method is employed to craft a mesmerizing sapphire network. The fireworks aspect of the piece, along with the connecting metallic strands, are so delicate that they seem to vanish before your eyes, giving the illusion of sapphires suspended mid-air. This piece embodies an exquisite blend of lightness and flexibility. The principal metallic component is hand-carved using wax, forming soft arcs that flawlessly complement the feminine curves, imbuing the piece with an air of sensuality and poetic elegance.
Jewellery design is a delicate dance of structural artistry, rendering the lines of each piece extraordinarily fluid and dynamic. The Chinese knot, at first glance in the sketch, appears to be a mere collection of simple arcs. Yet, its intricate interwoven structure and unconventional mesh topology weave together a tense, captivating narrative.
Lu Ying further elaborates, “The final facet pertains to the jewellery itself. It involves the play of light and reflections. Diamonds and gemstones are not rivals but partners, enhancing each other through their contrasting brilliance. There exists an incredible competition of colors, yet a harmony prevails. Sapphires and diamonds alternate, the choice of primary and secondary stones resonating with the entirety of the piece. The worth of a jewellery art piece isn’t solely dependent on the number of diamonds embedded within; it’s about how diamonds and colored gemstones collaborate, creating a mesmerizing effect.”
Conversing with the designer unveils the mysteries behind her bespoke creations, her sources of inspiration, and the best techniques to amplify the luminosity of her jewellery. Discussing her design inspirations, Lu Ying reveals that her designs are a triumvirate of elements: Chinese knots, resplendent fireworks, and the Great Wall. “My initial ambition,” she explains, “was to merge the grandest architectural marvel in human history, elements steeped in regional traditions, and the radiant beauty of Chinese wisdom into this piece, culminating in an artwork of complex yet exquisite beauty.”
Regarding production techniques, the sapphire network is crafted using the ingenious ‘blade’ setting method. The fireworks component and the connecting ultra-thin metallic threads appear to vanish before your eyes, creating an illusion of floating sapphires. This piece masterfully fuses lightness and flexibility. Exquisite. The main metallic element is hand-carved and waxed, forming soft arcs that flawlessly complement the feminine curves, infusing the piece with sensuality and poetic elegance.
Jewellery design demands structural artistry, enabling each piece to exude an ever-changing, dynamic sense of line. The Chinese knot, in its initial sketch form, is a mere collection of simple arcs. However, the complex structure and unique mesh topology intertwine to create a tension-filled design.
Lu concludes, “The final aspect relates to the jewellery itself, involving varying light reflections. You’ll notice how diamonds and gemstones enhance each other, creating a vibrant interplay of colors. The alternating arrangement of sapphires and diamonds, along with the selection of primary and secondary stones, echoes throughout the entire piece. The value of a jewellery art piece isn’t just measured by the quantity of diamonds it holds, but by how diamonds and colored gemstones collaborate to produce a captivating effect.”
Designer Lu Ying’s Showcase
Art Deco style jewellery, renowned for its geometric forms and bold designs, often features carved gemstones. This stunning necklace showcases a double-sided, octagonal Zambian emerald, meticulously carved to perfection.
The design inspiration has been drawn from the architectural grandeur of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque located in Abu Dhabi. The pendant of the necklace mirrors the suspended ceiling pattern of the mosque, specifically the five-petal flower pattern – a design element that gives a three-dimensional perspective to the jewellery.
Complementing the centre emerald are abacus-shaped emerald beads and vintage-style rubellite beads. These elements add a touch of colour contrast and visual interest to the piece. The pendant is expertly crafted using 18k white gold, and is delicately set with diamonds that sparkle with every turn.
One of the most intriguing aspects of this necklace is its versatility. The chain and main pendant are detachable, allowing for various wearing scenarios. Moreover, the main pendant doubles as a brooch, adding another level of functionality to this exquisite piece. This feature makes it not only a stunning masterpiece, but also a versatile addition to any jewellery collection.
Drawing inspiration from the mesmerizing hues of the Mediterranean, the Natural Wonders Collection presents the Mediterranean Blue Tanzanite Bead String Necklace Set. This collection highlights the sea-blue tanzanite beads and lake-green faceted emeralds, handpicked for their captivating allure.
The necklace set showcases a rich, deep blue tone, reminiscent of marine plants dancing in the rhythm of sea currents, encapsulating the essence of romantic feminine elegance. This combination of color and movement is a testament to nature’s beauty, creating a piece of jewellery that mirrors the serene yet vibrant ambiance of the Mediterranean.
Constructed from titanium metal, the bird’s colossal beak is beautifully depicted through mirror enamel. The sharp front and end are intricately inlaid with black spinels, while the eyes sparkle with black diamonds, highlighted by malachite green enamel. The standout feature is undoubtedly the feathers, studded with 223 purple sapphires, creating a visual symphony that sings praises to the eternal beauty of nature.
Ever since the conception of this Collection, the abundant wonders of nature have served as an inexhaustible wellspring of creative inspiration for the brand. This inspiration is vividly translated into the rich and captivating artistic themes found in different treasures within the collection.
The pieces pay homage to classic designs, transforming exquisite jewellery into lifelike representations of natural elegance. The masterful craftsmanship, borne out of the unwavering perseverance of artisans who embrace challenges, breathes life into the soul of art. The luminous orchids bloom, revealing delicate stamens; the full ears of wheat reflect the radiant sun; the light feathers symbolize dreams taking flight from the earth towards the sky. Henceforth, creativity takes wing, soaring leisurely in the expansive natural garden of imagination.
In Chinese culture, the orchid symbolizes nobility, fragrant elegance, and encapsulates a myriad of beautiful virtues. The design took 10 months and 4,120 hours of meticulous craftsmanship to be perfected, including redesigns over ten times.
It has managed to sculpt the most delicate organic lines from the hardest materials, capturing the orchid’s graceful posture as it unfurls and blossoms at the height of summer. The challenging titanium metal technique has been mastered by highly-skilled goldsmiths, through a process known as “high-temperature forging” under the extreme heat of 1668℃. Despite the visual volume of the ring/brooch, the lightweight property of titanium creates a fascinating contrast between what one sees and what one hefts. The result is a stunning piece of jewellery that pays homage to the beauty and strength inherent in nature and culture.
This article was published on Gem Spectrum print magazine issue #1, Page 38. Browse the flipbook here:
