It has been generally assumed that fine-quality emeralds in historical jewellery all came from Colombia, specially after the 1500s. Research has been repeatedly demonstrating that other deposits have, in different periods of history, made contributions to jewellery and objects d’art with gem-quality emeralds, notably Egypt in classic Antiquity, Austria (Habachtal) since the 18th century and also the Swat Valley in Pakistan. Theophrastus, tutor of Alexander the Great (3rd century BC), already mentions what seem to be emeralds reported in Bactria, along the Silk Road, somewhat consistent with where the Swat Valley region is located. Officially, Pakistani emerald deposits were located in Minora only in the late 1950s.
Every time we come across a 17th century pendant line the one depicted here, it is almost immediate to assume that the emeralds are Colombian. In fact, at this time, the majority of emeralds came from the then called Nueva Granada territory (today Colombia) under Spanish domination.
This pendant exposes the influence of Spanish models in some Portuguese jewellery of this period, maybe driven by the fact that Portugal was under Spanish sovereignty with the Philippine dynasty between 1581 and 1640.
Regarding the emeralds, pieces like this one should all go through a thorough gemmological screening, documenting their inclusions and chemistry to offer gemmologists clues to their possible geographic origin and it may happen, as it did in many museums and collections so far, that non-Colombian emeralds may be possibly found.
Photo by master Carlos Monteiro © Arquidiocese de Évora / Fundação Eugénio de Almeida
Guest articles by Rui Galopim de Carvalho:
https://gem-spectrum.com/category/rui-galopim-de-carvalho
About the author:
Rui Galopim de Carvalho is a renowned independent Gem Education Consultant, author, luxury industry training expert and popular international lecturer on gemmology and on the history of gem materials. During his 30 year experience as a gemmologist, Rui has studied important collections in both public and private museums, notably the Portuguese Crown Jewels.
Founder of the popular Home Gemmology webinar series launched during the COVID-19 lockdown, Rui has a long history as a gemmology communicator, notably on social media where he is a popular figure.
Rui Galopim de Carvalho can be reached through his website:
