During my GIA Graduate Gemologist studies, I was taught that gemologists and appraisers should only use geographical places and mine names to refer to actual places and that a name such as “Santa Maria aquamarine” should indicate its locality. However, “Santa Maria aquamarine” is also used as a color term or a color & clarity term for any aquamarine, the meaning of which varies depending on the user.
At the Tucson AGTA show, Paula Crevoshay stressed to me the importance of geographic origin to collectors and gem connoisseurs as she showed me rare gems from specific mines. She says that the rarity of the mine and the type of material for which it is noted affects its value, so “Mines matter,” and this concept should be respected by gemologists and labs.
I haven’t noticed yet gemologists calling any red ruby with strong red fluorescence Mogok ruby, but a few gemologists in Asia are now giving the term “Hetian jade” two new confusing meanings―any Chinese nephrite jade and any nephrite from anywhere. Originally “Hetian jade” was only used to refer to nephrite from Hetian, (aka Hotan, Khotan) Xinjiang, China. Though found in various colors and qualities, jade from Hetian is especially noted for its prized white variety, which has fetched the highest prices of any nephrite.
Gem lab reports and appraisals are supposed to protect consumers. To do that, clear unambiguous gemological terminology should be used to identify gems; trade terms should be defined and reserved for the comments section.
Based in London, Ingo Henn (FGA) (FIPG), grew up among the cutters and goldsmiths linked to his parents’ family business in Idar-Oberstein. He orchestrates the creation of Henn of London’s bespoke jewelry designs, working with a team of expert craftspeople. After he selects exceptional gems, he lets them speak to him and inspire the finished creations. See more examples at www.hennoflondon.co.uk.
About the author:
Renée Newman is a gemologist (GG, GIA), lecturer, writer and author of 15 books on gems and jewelry. Her goal is to provide consumers and jewelry professionals with unbiased, affordable information on how to buy, evaluate and appreciate gems and jewelry. She can be reached through her website:
