The Curvilinear tiara, also known as the Countess of Paris Chaumet tiara, made by Joseph Chaumet in 1930, featuring a few large natural baroque pearls © CHAUMET
The Curvilinear tiara, also known as the Countess of Paris Chaumet tiara, made by Joseph Chaumet in 1930, featuring a few large natural baroque pearls © CHAUMET


“Baroque” is a word commonly associated with non-symmetrical, irregularly-shaped pearls. The word itself is old and reportedly of Iberian origin, having been first used for pearls by the Portuguese. Later, in the 17th century, the term was acquired by the French art lexicon and became associated with a decorative art style.
Sometimes, however, it has been wrongly understood as a characteristic of a natural pearl, giving the erroneous impression that when a pearl is asymmetrical it is probably a natural pearl. Although most natural nacreous pearls are not regular nor symmetrical in shape, there are indeed fine round and symmetrical examples; likewise, although many saltwater cultured pearls are round or near-round (due to the spherical bead that is commonly used in the culturing process) there are notable examples of baroque-shaped beaded cultured pearls.

Interestingly, most non-bead cultured pearls that are by-products of the culturing process, the so-called keshi cultured pearls, are typically baroque.

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So, the term referes only to the morphology of the pearl, not to its natural or cultured origin.

In the image, the Curvilinear tiara, also known as the Countess of Paris Chaumet tiara, made by Joseph Chaumet in 1930, featuring a few large natural baroque pearls © CHAUMET


Guest articles by Rui Galopim de Carvalho:

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A smiling man with a beard and bald head resting his chin on his hand, wearing a black suit and white shirt, with bookshelves in the background.
Rui Galopim de Carvalho

About the author:

Rui Galopim de Carvalho is a renowned independent Gem Education Consultant, author, luxury industry training expert and popular international lecturer on gemmology and on the history of gem materials. During his 30 year experience as a gemmologist, Rui has studied important collections in both public and private museums, notably the Portuguese Crown Jewels.

Founder of the popular Home Gemmology webinar series launched during the COVID-19 lockdown, Rui has a long history as a gemmology communicator, notably on social media where he is a popular figure.

He is associate editor of Gem-A’s Journal of Gemmology, Vice-President of the Coral Commission of The World Jewellery Confederation – CIBJO, member of the Communications Committee of ICA (International Colored Gemstone Association), ambassador for LAUREL -Portuguese Association of Excellence Brands (ECCIA member) and consultant for several private collections and trade organizations.

Rui Galopim de Carvalho can be reached through his website:

https://ruigalopim.com

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